Item	Cost	Comment
Game (complete)	$250
Sandpaper	$8
Paint Service	$25
Shroud	$25
Lock Set	$5
Velcro	$0	Check her sewing kit
Labor	$4 / hour	This varies by project
Sold	($600)	Cedar Rock Arcade Sells One

I sold it for $600 which yields about $4/hour for me and my helper. Anyone interested in a job as a professional restoration artist?

Tags: Final

The game was delivered and I got paid.

Tags: sold

Test the game before shipping. Really, this is required! You have to play the game a few times before sending it off with the new owner.

Tags: Burn Test

Install new lock set. Almost every game I get is missing locks, missing keys or the locks are damaged and no longer function. A new lock set is not very expensive. It adds a beauty and newness to the cabinet. It also provides a complete set of keys for the buyer or owner.

Install the new shroud and monitor glass (actually smoked plexi). The shroud should be attached to the monitor to give it the proper curvature without sliding around. The last maintainer of this machine used double sided sticky foam. I chose to use Velcro^® sqares to allow the safe removal of the shroud for cleaning or maintenance later.

Rebuild the control panel. The cleaned parts are reassembled and look great! The sticky buttons operate smoothly now. Replace the marquee, control panel, monitor and coin box in to the cabinet.

Create a new monitor shroud. The monitor shroud was made of a very thin paper. Usually these are a heavy poster board material, but this game has this construction paper weight shroud. It was destroyed when I removed everything in step 2. My painter friend also has a steady hand and a supply of X-Acto knives.

Repaint the cabinet. I don’t have a sprayer, compressor or the talent to smoothly apply paint. I paid my friend to do this work. Friends are a great help in these projects. They provide talents you don’t have and they usually work for beer or consideration in a later purchase.

I cleaned the control panel with a Brill-o pad. I took some advice on this method before trying it. I was assured it would not destroy the overlay, but would remove all the dirt efficiently. I tagged and removed all the buttons so I can remember where to replace them after cleaning.

The Brill-O worked great. I dried the control panel immediately after cleaning and set it in the sun to completely dry out. I hope to avoid rust this way.

I cleaned the buttons with a kitchen sponge (Scrunge, you know rough on one side for the tough dirt) with out submerging them. They came out fair. The red ones that get banged hard in this game could be in better shape. I should probably replace them, but they have a shroud (the ring around the button is raised at the top) on the top side and I have not found replacement buttons with this design.

Sanded the goo off the cabinet. This destroyed the blue paint, but it didn’t match the bottom anyway.

To facilitate cleaning and the painting I removed the control panel, bezel glass, monitor, speakers, coin box and marquee. I also removed the duct tape someone placed over the speakers (to lower the volume?). The tape left a residue of fabric and sticky goo.

Test the game. I got it to my basement workshop, plugged it in and turned it on. The first success: it works. Game plays fine, sound is good and monitor is sharp.

Tags: Burn Test

I purchased this Track ‘n Field as part of a bulk buy. The cabinet was solid, but the working status was not known. There was no side art. The white (melamine) sides were in fair shape. The blue front (where the coin box is) was a different color than the top of the game. The control panel was dirty, but nearly complete. The buttons were sticking.

Tags: Acquisition