Item	Cost	Comment
Acquisition	50	Complete Game
Monitor Tube	0	On Hand
Cap Kit	10	Quarter Arcade
Manual	15	Needed Directions
Shroud	25	Arcade Shop
Lock Set	5
Cleaning Bonus	(1)	Pays to be neat
IC501	12	Arcade Shop
SOLD	(200)
Total	(109)	Profit?

I spent about 35 hours on this project so I got paid about $2/hour. It is a hobby, not a business.

Some good little boys and girls are getting a full size arcade game this year. Parents love Klax because it is not violent, can be two simultaneous players and just sounds great.

I have the top score at 232495 for a single credit game. Some improvements could be made. I have a quarter coin mech in one side which is a spare I had lying about. The other coin mech is set to accept tokens, this should be replaced.

The joystick for the right player lost the ability to move left. I believe the solder joint is failing. I supported the joint with electrical tape and it seems to be holding. I will eventually replace the wiring with a nice new JAMMA harness. I would really like to get Molex connectors between the board and the control panel and coin door.

The control panel has plexiglass over generic artwork. I would like to replace or upgrade the control panel art or maybe the whole control panel with some Klax artwork. The sides are still painted with the Aqua fleck and I would like to get some Klax side art. I have not decided whether to strip the Aqua fleck off because I don't know how to repaint it.

Upon the advice of Steven Gregory at ArcadeShop I bought and installed a new IC501 (Video Oscillation) Chip. The screen stopped rolling! Klax Lives!

The cabinet is in need of cleaning. I also purchased a plastic monitor bezel. I installed this behind the original Taito glass. This will better support the sagging card stock paper bezel graphics that were included with the Klax Conversion kit. I carefully removed the paper from the back of the glass and cleaned the glass thoroughly.

I then mounted the paper artwork on top of the plastic monitor bezel. The plastic will support the weight of the paper and keep it from sagging. It also blocks glare by shrouding the monitor as it is molded to match the monitor's curved surface.

The glass was mounted improperly. I had some trouble sliding it in the tracks on the cabinet sides. It seems the cabinet is leaning a bit because if I pushed the top of the cabinet the width changed.

I loosened the carriage bolts holding the monitor support rails. This allowed me to slide the glass into the cabinet all the way to its proper resting place. I was also able to slide the monitor bezel and artwork in the lower track to complete the bezel artwork. After they were installed properly I retightened the carriage bolts until they were snug, but not putting pressure on the glass.

I bolted the monitor back into place, closed the cabinet and moved Klax up to the game room and it is swallowing most of my quarters now.

I installed the cap kit and the monitor controls respond much better. I can achieve a nice, clear, coherent picture . . . that rolls! Well, it is an improvement, but not the solution. I posted on rgvac newsgroup for some advice. Let's see what the veterans have to say.